R Asia, located in Solna Centrum, attempts a balancing act: catering to traditional Swedish preferences with a large standard buffet while simultaneously offering a more ambitious and authentic à la carte menu featuring genuine Chinese cuisine. This duality reflects a broader challenge faced by Chinese restaurants in Sweden, where the ”Chinese restaurant” archetype is often associated with predictable, uninspired small-town establishments rather than the diverse and complex culinary landscape of China. While larger cities might see attempts at more authentic Chinese dining, these ventures are often short-lived, perhaps due to the perceived need to offer familiar, child-friendly dishes to appeal to the broader Swedish palate. R Asia, however, endeavours to bridge this gap, providing both familiar comfort and an invitation to explore the less-charted territories of Chinese cuisine.
Since its opening in 2012, R Asia’s commitment to its à la carte menu has fluctuated, but it is currently a prominent feature. Guests should explicitly state their intention to order from the à la carte menu, and some dishes require pre-ordering. The menu itself begins with a rather grandiose statement, promising ”top-quality local Swedish ingredients,” chefs with ”precise cooking skills,” and an overall dining experience that transports guests to China. Encouraging a shared dining experience, the restaurant recommends three to four dishes per pair of diners. Notably, the portion sizes are significantly larger than those typically found in other restaurants adopting the increasingly popular small-plates concept. This is a crucial distinction, as it allows for a more substantial exploration of the various flavours and textures on offer.
R Asia’s menu presents an intriguing journey through authentic Chinese cuisine, which might be considered adventurous for those accustomed to more conventional Swedish-Chinese fare. It features exotic offal dishes such as pig stomach, intestines, aorta, and ox heart, as well as frog legs and jellyfish – ingredients that, while potentially palatable, might conjure less-than-appetizing images for some. Among the more unusual ”cold dishes” is the ”numbing tripe” (158 SEK), a generous serving of finely sliced, glistening white calf tripe resting on thinly sliced cucumber. The tripe itself is relatively mild in flavour, but the accompanying dipping sauce, a vibrant blend of Sichuan peppercorns, coriander, and bird’s eye chili, delivers a complex and tingling sensation. Another noteworthy cold dish is the jellyfish salad (188 SEK), featuring chewy yet crisp slices of jellyfish heads served in an ornate metal bowl atop a bed of finely chopped bell peppers and pea shoots with aged vinegar. The dish is surprisingly pleasant, offering a unique and subtly salty seafood experience.
The warm dishes offer a similarly diverse and intriguing selection. The ”fish-fragrant eggplant” (190 SEK) is a standout dish, featuring six small, grilled and fried eggplants filled with a mixture of shrimp and chicken, served on a sizzling hot plate. The filling, combined with pickled chili and ginger, creates a captivating interplay of flavours, further enhanced by a rich, dark, and sweet-sour sauce. Contrary to its name, the dish does not contain fish. The Gongbao shrimp (228 SEK), while featuring generously portioned, lightly fried scampi with zucchini and peanuts, suffers from an overly sweet sauce that overwhelms the other flavours. The dumplings (130 SEK for six), available with beef, pork, or vegetarian fillings, are unfortunately bland. However, the steamed sea bass (298 SEK), presented whole and simply dressed with scallions, ginger, coriander, and soy sauce, is a refreshing highlight, showcasing the quality of the ingredients and the chef’s restraint.
Further recommendations include the ”twice-cooked pork” (180 SEK), consisting of steamed pork belly that is chilled, sliced, then stir-fried with fresh garlic shoots, red and green chili, and fermented black beans, delivering a deeply savoury and satisfying dish. The ”chili chicken” (198 SEK), presented in a wooden birdcage, features deep-fried chicken cubes with peanuts, dried chili, and sesame oil. While visually appealing, the dish is unfortunately dry and overly salty. The dessert menu is relatively limited compared to the extensive savoury offerings. On one occasion, the dessert buffet consisted solely of soft-serve ice cream. Another visit, however, offered a delightful surprise: chewy rice flour balls filled with black sesame paste served in a fragrant orange-infused sauce of reduced rice wine and honey – a traditional Chinese New Year treat.
While R Asia’s chefs clearly demonstrate culinary skill and knowledge, the execution of the dishes can be inconsistent, especially considering the high expectations set by the menu’s ambitious introduction. This may be attributed to a lack of regular practice with the full range of dishes offered. Developing consistency and finesse across such a vast menu requires frequent preparation. The drinks menu features classic wines and beers alongside a selection of Asian alcoholic beverages, including baijiu, Kirin Ichiban beer (also available alcohol-free), and various wines and spirits that complement the sweet and spicy dishes. The spacious restaurant, while often sparsely populated on weekdays, maintains a cozy and welcoming atmosphere. The dual nature of the menu attracts a diverse clientele, ranging from connoisseurs of Chinese cuisine to families with children and casual diners.
The owner reportedly aspires to relocate R Asia to a more central location within Stockholm, focusing solely on authentic Chinese cuisine. Such a move would be a welcome development, showcasing a commitment to culinary authenticity and offering a unique dining experience. However, refining the consistency and execution of the dishes will be crucial to attracting and retaining a discerning audience. While R Asia’s adventurous menu and commitment to authentic flavours are commendable, consistent delivery on its ambitious promises is essential for its long-term success.
