Stephen Jones, a renowned milliner based in London, has solidified his position as a leading figure in the world of hat design. His work, characterized by originality and a mastery of traditional techniques, has made him a favorite among luxury fashion houses. He creates hats under his own name for private clients while simultaneously collaborating with iconic brands like Vivienne Westwood, John Galliano, Jean-Paul Gaultier, Thierry Mugler, Comme des Garçons, Schiaparelli, Dior, and Acne Studios. His designs are not mere accessories; they are pivotal components of the artistic whole, punctuating a designer’s vision and adding an element of high art to each ensemble. A retrospective exhibition at the Palais Galliera in Paris showcases his prolific career, highlighting his connections to the fashion capitals of London and Paris.
The exhibition at Palais Galliera, featuring over 400 hats, traces Jones’ journey from his formative years at Central Saint Martins in London to his current status as a celebrated milliner. The thematic thread intertwines his experiences in London and Paris, exploring the distinct influences of each city on his artistic development. Beginning with his student days in the late 1970s, the exhibition delves into the impact of London’s vibrant nightlife, particularly the new romantic scene at the Blitz nightclub. Jones’ early work, often characterized by a blend of historical references, contemporary styles, and an androgynous flair, resonated with this movement, and he created hats for several of its prominent figures, including Steve Strange and even Princess Diana. This early exposure cemented his reputation for innovative design and propelled him into the upper echelons of the fashion industry.
Jones’ talent quickly captured the attention of key figures in the London fashion world, including Vivienne Westwood, for whom he created iconic headwear, such as the colorful crowns for the Harris Tweed collection in 1987-88. His connection to the music scene further broadened his reach, with Boy George’s appearance in a Jones-designed red fez in the Culture Club music video for ”Do You Really Want to Hurt Me” attracting the attention of Jean-Paul Gaultier. This led to a collaboration resulting in an oversized fez design, a piece that has become iconic and a recurring motif in Gaultier’s collections. This marked a turning point, establishing Jones’ presence in Paris and sparking a series of collaborations with various fashion houses, solidifying his role as a sought-after milliner on both sides of the Channel.
The exhibition also highlights Jones’ ability to seamlessly transition between the distinct fashion sensibilities of London and Paris. The display features a range of hats, from London-inspired masculine styles like bowler hats and those incorporating the Union Jack, to more feminine Parisian designs including berets and pieces referencing the Eiffel Tower. Further demonstrating his versatility, Jones has created a series of hats inspired by legendary designers such as Coco Chanel, Madame Grès, Christian Dior, Cristóbal Balenciaga, and Elsa Schiaparelli, deftly capturing their signature aesthetics in his own unique interpretations. Jones shares Schiaparelli’s ability to elevate the seemingly kitsch and whimsical into high fashion, creating conversation pieces that are both elegant and thought-provoking.
The exhibition at Palais Galliera doesn’t solely focus on the finished products. It delves into Jones’ creative process and meticulous craftsmanship. Visitors can explore miniature displays showcasing the journey from initial sketches to the intricate millinery techniques employed in his atelier, culminating in the finished hat elegantly packaged and ready for its recipient. This provides a rare glimpse into the behind-the-scenes world of haute couture millinery and emphasizes the artistry and dedication involved in creating these unique pieces. The juxtaposition of Jones’ creations with historical headwear from the museum’s collection further underscores the rich tradition within which he works and the inspiration he draws from the history of millinery.
The exhibition culminates in a grand display of Jones’ hats alongside the garments they were designed to complement. This spectacular showcase features installations recreating catwalk presentations from various fashion houses, including his long-standing collaboration with Dior, which began in 1996 under John Galliano’s creative direction. This partnership has continued through subsequent creative directors, showcasing Jones’ enduring ability to adapt and interpret different design visions while maintaining his own distinctive style. The exhibition emphasizes Jones’ remarkable capacity to collaborate with diverse brands, from Louis Vuitton to Thierry Mugler, Comme des Garçons, and Thom Browne, showcasing his adaptability and mastery of varying aesthetics. This retrospective celebrates not only Jones’ artistic talent but also his ability to navigate the complex world of high fashion, leaving a lasting legacy in the world of millinery.
