Gustav Leonhardt’s Bocuse d’Or Journey: A Bronze Finish and Lessons Learned
Gustav Leonhardt, the Swedish representative in the prestigious Bocuse d’Or culinary competition, may not have achieved his gold medal aspiration, but his bronze finish is a testament to his skill and dedication. Reflecting on the experience, Leonhardt expresses satisfaction with his team’s performance and the "magnificent" food they produced, acknowledging that it wasn’t enough to secure the top spot. The competition, held in Lyon, France, saw 24 countries vying for the coveted title. It comprised two challenging rounds: the first focused on an extravagant presentation featuring venison saddle, foie gras, and tea, while the second required a main course showcasing the culinary heritage of each nation, utilizing sea bass, lobster, and celery root.
Leonhardt’s team took a calculated risk in the first round, opting for an open-faced pie in the venison dish, a distinctly Swedish approach. However, this decision proved costly, as the judges, favoring the traditional closed pie, deducted crucial points. This underscored the competition’s inherent bias towards classic French culinary techniques. Ultimately, France claimed the gold medal, with Denmark securing silver. Despite the setback, Leonhardt emphasized the significance of the bronze victory, a clear indication of Sweden’s culinary prowess on the world stage. He openly acknowledged the competition’s strong French culinary bias, which ultimately played a role in the final results. He noted that while he and his team produced excellent food, the judging criteria heavily favored traditional French techniques and flavors.
The Swedish team’s culinary creations included a delectable plate featuring lobster-glazed sea bass with kelp oil, confit celery root, kombu & lemon verbena, garden salad, celery hearts, and jalapeno, accompanied by a lobster sabayon infused with ginger and citrus leaves. The platter presentation showcased spiced-roasted and morel-stuffed venison saddle and pepper-glazed tenderloin, complemented by a venison pie with slow-cooked shoulder, foie gras, savoy cabbage, and green Chartreuse. Rounding out the platter were smoked winter apple and red currant, a green pepper and foie gras sauce, and a venison consommé flavored with oolong tea, mushroom ravioli, and a “winter harvest” garnish. The team, led by Leonhardt and coached by Peter Asp Jelksäter, included commis chef Noel Moglia and team president Tommy Myllymäki.
Leonhardt’s reflections on the competition extend beyond the strategic choices and results. He shares his mixed feelings about the mandatory ingredients: while a passionate hunter and lover of venison, he found the sea bass challenging to cook to perfection. The inclusion of foie gras, a staple of French cuisine, presented a moral dilemma. Leonhardt voiced his discomfort with the ingredient’s production methods, involving force-feeding of ducks and geese, calling it "outdated." Despite his reservations, he complied with the competition’s requirements, feeling obligated to "toe the line." He unequivocally stated that he has fulfilled his foie gras quota for the foreseeable future.
The Bocuse d’Or experience, while challenging, proved invaluable for Leonhardt, the 2021 Årets Kock (Chef of the Year) winner. He already envisions a future attempt, armed with the lessons learned. He emphasizes the importance of avoiding risky deviations from established norms, prioritizing visual presentation over pure taste, and respecting the weight of classic French cuisine in the competition. He acknowledges that creativity, while crucial in culinary exploration, may need to be tempered within the confines of the Bocuse d’Or framework. This experience has solidified his understanding of the competition’s nuances and priorities.
Looking ahead, Leonhardt is eager to apply his culinary expertise and newfound wisdom in a new venture. He expresses his ambition to open a restaurant, aiming to fill a niche in the Swedish gastronomic landscape. While the exact nature of this culinary venture remains undefined, Leonhardt’s passion, experience, and drive promise an exciting addition to the Swedish dining scene. This ambition highlights his entrepreneurial spirit and desire to contribute something unique to his country’s culinary tapestry. The Bocuse d’Or, while not resulting in the desired gold, served as a significant stepping stone in Leonhardt’s ongoing culinary journey.
The Bocuse d’Or, established in 1987 by renowned French chef Paul Bocuse, is a biennial event attracting participants from 60 countries across the globe. Following rigorous continental qualifying rounds, 24 finalists compete in the grand finale in Lyon. Sweden has a proud history in the competition, with Mathias Dahlgren achieving the ultimate victory in 1997. This prestigious competition serves as a global platform for culinary innovation and excellence, pushing chefs to their limits and showcasing their mastery of technique and flavor. The competition’s structure, with its emphasis on French culinary traditions, presents a unique set of challenges and opportunities for chefs from diverse backgrounds.
